Advice and choice of sizes by Fred Tuscan, manager of EB
How to choose the right size? Mission difficult … What climber has never asked this question, even after 20 years of practice? What climber did not regret having taken half a size more or less in the first sessions with his new toys? Again, there are few who are never mistaken.
How many times have we heard around us:”Take this model you’ll see, it’s great, I love it!”. This could be true provided it is your clone that has the same technical background and gesture, and again. Or:”You have to take two sizes below, otherwise it’s too big! “This may have been true at a time when the offer was not very different and where the practitioners were all genuine enthusiasts ready to suffer in order to achieve their ends.Today this time is gone. At EB we consider that the boot is the most complicated product to choose in the radius of verticality. If finding the right model is not easy, finding the right size is the answer to half the difficulty.
Here are some tips on choosing the slippers:
>> First of all, a slipper does not keep on foot during the entire session! It should be removed as often as possible.
>> Do not listen to your surroundings with your eyes closed for the purchase of a slipper, even someone far stronger than you. At best be curious and go spend your feet inside in the store without remaining closed to anything else.
>> Schedule in-store time to try different products and adjust the size.
>> Ask the seller for assistance in a specialist pre-owned shop. The latter will undoubtedly have at heart to sell you the product that will suit you best because very often, satisfying you is its priority. It is true that not all sellers are equal but it should be noted that at a specialist dealer, often you will find real specialists, passionate and trained by brands. To appreciate their skills, spot those who begin by asking you questions before turning to products.
>> Select the product that best fits your practice and especially where you are best. What does it mean ?The one in which you are well in terms of comfort, feel, with which you most want to climb and not the one that your idol carries.
>> The new slipper should not make you suffer either from the front on the big toe or from the back on the Achilles heel. Even as they age, it is unlikely that these pains will dissipate. Conversely, small lateral pain disappears in most cases, more or less quickly according to the models and their materials.
Concerning the size:
Once the model is found, choose the correct size. If one assumes that the climber must choose between performance and comfort, and despite some exceptions, theoretically the more one goes to the one, the more one moves away from the other, the challenge is to optimize the size To achieve the right alchemy between performance and pleasure. Indeed, a liner is adjusted and any space between your foot and the liner will be harmful for performance but the more the liner is tight, the more it can hurt you.
Our advices:
As a preamble, you should know that different brands do not cut in the same way so do not be surprised to choose sizes greater than your city size or a contrario well below. Your sensations are more relevant than the size label. In addition, all slippers “move” and are made on the feet by climbing more or less importantly. Once again all the models are not equal and the material used for the stem (the textile part of the slipper) greatly conditions its evolution. It should not be forgotten that the relaxation of the boot (at 90% in width) is beneficial for comfort and detrimental for precision. We must therefore draw two lessons:
>> Since the liner widens over time, a small lateral discomfort is likely to disappear from the first sessions.
>> If you are looking for performance, you must anticipate relaxation, or run into “slippers” that are not very precise … You will have to accept to suffer at first or choose models that relax a little.
For this, it is important to know that the raw materials also differ from one product to another. Roughly speaking, there are three main families of materials:
>> Synthetics that do not move almost;
>> Leather crusts which move much, mostly in width;
>> Elastic microfibers that move little. Do not hesitate to ask for advice from the sellers
On these subjects.
Then, your level and your state of mind are, in our opinion, the main criteria for the choice of the size
If you begin, it is useless to suffer, you will not progress faster on the contrary you risk living this beautiful practice with disgust.Choose comfortable products and slippers that only tighten your foot very lightly. The thin sock can be a solution. The priority is to make you happy, but avoid taking three sizes more if not as much climbing in sneakers!
If you are in an intermediate level with a very leisurely, very cool approach you can select products a little more technical (asymmetry, camber) and start
To take sizes that tighten the foot a little more without having to suffer in it.
Now, if you are in an intermediate level struck by the climbing virus with the will to progress, the performance boot becomes almost indispensable to overcome your goal of progression. It is therefore necessary to banish the folds which one can have especially in point on the top. To make it short, chase the void! You must feel a little more compressed in your slippers to gain in precision.
If you are an expert, the task is tougher as the slipper must become a second skin. You must genuinely fill your slippers and do not hesitate to get down in sizes. If in addition you are falaisist, do not neglect the precision. Take synthetic or microfibre slippers tight and anticipate relaxation for leather slippers.
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